Kenyan Highlights

Tour # 4 begins in Nairobi. There were supposed to be 3 of us but the others cancelled at the last minute. It's just me !!!! Me and the driver. We're in a pop-top van this time..no big overland truck.

We take the road through the Rift Valley en route to the Maasai Mara. In the valley below is the Longonot Earth Satelite Station. On the way we stop at a local maasai village where I am taken inside one of the houses. They have no power of course so a fire is lit. Its very hot and I dont want to offend my maasai guide by going outside. We sit on the edge of a bed. Everything is surrounded by dirt. Theres an old lady holding a newborn baby in her arms. Shes the grandmother I'm told. I wonder what sort of life this baby has been born into. Cooking in a pot over the fire is maize..their staple diet. On one side of the house is a room for the parents and the other side for the children. Theres only one bed so they obviously all bunk in together. The next room is for the baby animals...calves and kids and lambs. The cows etc sleep in the centre of all the houses to protect them from lions. Once outside I see an old lady sitting up next to the side of the house making a necklace. I ask to sit beside her and she offers to show me how its done. My guide is pleasantly surprised to see me interacting in this way. There are young children too with flies all over their faces. This is really primitive living but its all they know. The houses are built by the women. They collect the sticks and plaster the sides with cow dung. They are responsible for all the work with cooking and children. They milk the cows and and gather firewood....sometimes from many kilometres away. They fetch water. The men are responsible for the protection of the family and tending the herds !! All manual work is for the women. A man can have 5 wives , or more if he has the cows. It costs 25 cows for one wife. The first wife is decided by his father. He must give equal time to each wife..and can 'visit' more than one wife in a night if he chooses. He can do as he pleases with her and she must not complain for fear of a beating by her father. She can produce a baby every 9 months if the man decides he wants another baby. Hence...large and extended families. The elders are not happy about the younger ones getting an education as they dont want the culture to die. All this information I got from a maasai I met a few days later. Some of these men have very refined features and with all their regalia on they look quite stunning. One man let me wear his hat which was made from a lion he had killed. He showed me how he blew a 'message' on a buffalo horn. All in all, it was an interesting visit.

We arrive at Keekorok Lodge in the heart of the Mara. It is beautiful and certainly not what I have been accustomed to previously. There are porters running around everywhere. At reception I am given a warm cloth to wipe the hands and face followed by a glass of passionfruit juice. Yay....could get used to this. My room is big and has a definite african flavour. Gorgeous. There's lots of tourists here and I later hear that I am conspicuous because I am on my own. Some are envious that I have a vehicle to myself. This lodge even has it's own hippo pool and the hippos wander on the lawn at night. The grounds are like a park. Its lunch time and it's 3 course !!! Up until now its been lunch on tin plates from the truck. What a difference.

Each day at 3.30pm it's coffee / tea time and game drives leave at 4pm until sunset. Such organisation. It's like clockwork. We see 6 large lions right on the side of the road. Up until now I havent really been happy with my photos of male lions but that changes as the beasts saunter right past the van door and sit on the road. My driver is excellent at getting the best vantage point for photos and he stops when and where I ask him.....you can do this when you're on your own ( perks ). I am the only one looking straight at this male lion with his teeth bared. Got it !!! Next theres 3 cheetahs sleeping on a mound in the afternoon sun. Lazy things wont move though. As the sun sets over the large herd of buffalo, we make our way back to the lodge. A 3 course meal awaits . The bar staff and waiters are very friendly. Its most welcoming, I must say.

A morning game drive begins with coffee / tea at 6am and leaving at 6.30. Again I am the only one in the best place to get a good photo of the elusive black rhino. Got it !!! Next on the list....lions eating their evening kill. All these vans and 4x4's have radio contact between them and if a good sighting is seen , they all converge on the given spot. Why is eveyone looking at me ? Is it the hair ? No...I am on my own. A yummy breakfast awaits then the day belongs to me so an afternoon siesta is the plan. Now this is how to do a real safari !! The afternoon drive yeilds another lion eating the kill and another black rhino sighting. Back at the lodge I have booked a massage and facial to top off my last tour. Its in a tent at the bottom of the garden. Theres a light rain and its dripping softly on the roof., theres subdued lighting...get the picture ??? When I get to the restaurant for dinner, because I have been here for 2 nights, they have reserved my table just for me. They remember which one and they remember my room number. I am on a fuss. NICE ! This place is packed with people and I am but one single and yet they make me feel special. After dinner we are treated to a display of maasai chanting and their famous jumping dance. I recognise some of them from the village tour . Two taiwanese tourists ask if they can have a photo with me as they have been observing my hair. " Beautiful woman " they say. The other tourists look on with smiles and me with disbelief !!

On our way to Lake Nakuru the following day the roads were atrocious. They have a base of rocks and the top layer has worn off so the rocks protrude. The driver goes the same speed as normal and the whole van rattles and shakes. The dust pours in and I can see daylight through the closed door frame. All of a sudden he stops and gets out saying he suspects a flat tyre. Flat tyre indeed !! It is ripped to shreds , smells of burning rubber and smoke is coming out the numerous holes. Needless to say...its knackered. Hakuna Matata....off with the old and on with the new. He has more than one spare..for obvious reasons. Whilst waiting for repairs a maasai warrior emerges from somewhere in the trees and stands to observe, not saying a word. He leans on his stick .

All along the side of the road little children are waving as the van approaches. They live in bad conditions but they still seem happy. Its getting a little greener as we go north. Theres lots of maize and wheat being grown. Donkeys are prevelent and are often seen carrying huge loads of charcoal on their backs. Sometimes they have minders who hit them with a stick to keep them on their path. At the lake it seems the millions of flamingoes have flown to better eating places because of the drought. There are still hundreds here though. White rhinos are common here and they come very close to the vehicles. The first time I have seen this. The little baby is so cute . Its also my first sighting of the beautiful Rothschild giraffe. It has different markings to the other breeds ...very clean and neat. My favourite. The animals here are not in good condition and covered in dust from the lake edge. The rains need to come soon.

Only one night is spent at Lake Nakuru then its a long drive with picnic lunch south to Amboseli via Nairobi. Amboseli lies at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro and its usually only in the early morning that it can be seen clearly. I saw it from my bedrrom window !! Wonderful. Getting to Ol Tukai Lodge required a drive across the Kalahari Desert. In the distance you would swear you could see water and yet there is none. An obvious mirage. One very lone giraffe walks slowly in need of water. It will be a long trek for the poor animal.

My first game drive is depressing to say the least. Rain has not fallen in Amboseli for more than 2 years. Everywhere there are dead and dying animals. The rest look sick or thin. The stench is revolting. One buffalo on the side of the road near death ( or so I thought ) was still there the following morning. Apart from a slight twitch of the ear, it showed no signs of life. Its a long and uncomfortable death for these creatures. And yet man cannot tamper with the ways of nature. They are left to be. Even the only two lions we saw looked ill. One half hearted attempt to kill a wildebeest produced nothing. And even if they eat the dead animals, its not healthy for them.

The following morning game drive was much the same. The elephants that are famous in these parts have either gone elsewhere or died. There are no trees for the animals to shelter as they have , in years gone by, been destroyed by the elephants. I declined the afternoon game drive as I didnt want to see any more. Its heartbreaking. And this time I spent talking to the maasai who frequents this beautiful lodge. His information on his culture was very interesting. He told me he had been a World Vision sponsored child but was never allowed to find or know who his sponsor was. He has no idea which country they come from. He has been educated up until his last two unite. He needs 30,000 ksh to finish. He talked about kidnapping his brother from his village and taking him away to school without his fathers knowledge. He wanted to thank his sponsor for giving him the opportunity to learn but is unable to do so. He wrote me a list of swahili words to learn as this is the native language of Kenya. Whenever I use it the people smile and love it. In fact, they love me so much they asked me not to leave....oohhh isnt that nice ? Ol Tukai Lodge is a wonderful place ( apart from the distressed animals outside the fence ) with all the porters and waiters again running after me. When they saw me sitting alone they would always come up and chat. Needless to say...I will be busy e mailing these local guys when I get home as they all want to keep contact. Such friendly people.

My visit to Kenya was short but most memorable. I would have to say its my favourite of the 9 countries I have visited in Africa so far.

I have seen and done so much in my time here and have marvelous memories and thousands of photos. I have made long time friends along the way. One , in fact will be visiting me in NZ in February. My good friend Loes from Holland who shared a large part of my trip with me. Before I came here I was told, more than once, that I would return as there is something special about Africa. I cant put my finger on it, but its true. On leaving here I will be leaving a little part of me.

When I was in Lusaka I bought a beautiful book on African cultural practices and in that book is a quote......" When you come ,you own the journey.....when you leave, the journey owns you "

How very true.

Kwaheri for now....I shall return.

Into Tanzania

Its an early start this morning for our long drive to the Tanzanian border. It takes two days to get to Kerepehu Beach on the other side of Dar Es Salaam. Its the final days of Ramadan here and when we arrive in Dar its early evening and the streets are full of muslims eating after a day of fasting. The women and children are dressed beautifully and as the truck weaves slowly up the narrow streets, we become a spectacle amid the crowds of people . Theres lots of noise and activity. We're not allowed to take photos which is a real shame as there is such charactor here.

It's extremely hot and humid when we arrive at the ferry terminal the next morning. Having a long walk with bags adds to the discomfort. Theres hassles at the office and it soon becomes evident that we have no tickets for the ferry to Zanzibar. Apparently the man who took the money for the pre paid tickets has skipped the country and gone to Russia !! After much stress by our guide and phone calls, we are later given new tickets but now have to wait in this dreaded heat for a later ferry......we are directed upstairs to the top level of the ferry. We sit there for another hour before departure. There is no circulation, no open windows and no air conditioning. The chairs are old and dirty and the carpet is disgusting. After some time , I am finding this humidity unbearable . The sweat is constant and draining so I decide I must get outside before I expire. There is no air inside which is dreadful and it smells bad. On the way outside , I step over mothers and children who are asleep on the floor. Babies are crying. Outside is packed and no one moves to let me past. Finally I find a little place near the edge and sit there until we arrive in Zanzibar after 3 hours on board this vessel. Getting off is bedlam. Everyone is pushing and shoving and there is only a small doorway. Some people have big bags or boxes and try to push past. One person has a hen in a cage !!!! There is no politeness here. I feel like an animal in a stock truck being unloaded. Horrible.

After checking into our hotel in Stonetown, its down to the waters edge to find some lunch and try and destress. There are Ramadan celebrations going on in the park tonight. It's interesting to sit and people watch. There is lots of activity and again the women and children are beautifully dressed. Loes and I decide to walk amongst the people and get a feel of their experience.

A morning walk around the shops and quaint alleyways of Stonetown...I'm learning the art of bargaining and I have my own way of doing it. I'm not sure they like it but it works. My suitcase is getting heavier as this holiday progresses. The alleys are narrow and the cars drive through them. If you hear a toot from behind that means ...get out of the way ! Everywhere the taxi drivers are asking for business and shop owners are lurching out the doors looking for a sale. Best prices anywhere maaam...yeah right !!

My room on the northern beach of Zanzibar is upgraded to seaview. Its gorgeous. The water is beneath the floor almost. There are lots of bungalows and hotels along the stretch of sand. Some seem to be predominantly Italian clients. At dinner in our restaurant there is a maasai warrior selling his jewellery. Strange place for a maasai I think to myself. It looks a little out of place here on a beach. After talking to him ( and buying some wares of course ) Loes and I are invited by him and his friend to a bar outside the compound. I'm very hesitant when I look through the cracks of the entrance and realise that she and I are the only white people there. Its a bit late to back out now and I soon find that my preconceptions are misguided. Its a maasai bar and everyone is friendly. We certainly stand out, thats for sure !!

The following day, walking along the beach, there are maasai everywhere ! They tell us they are from Arusha and come to Zanzibar to sell their wares for 3 months then go home. I am not sure how much money they would have left if they are drinking alcohol each night. They are a very thin breed and look striking in their predominantly red attire. Most of them are male and in their 20's. They come and chat as you walk and want to know which country you are from. I note that they can speak Italian...hhhmmm...wheres their culture gone to ? This doesnt seem right ( I later find out from another maasai from another tribe that he's not impressed with this lot ) . Hitting on white women is certainly not their culture but they're giving it a good go. There are lots of little shops along the beach too to attract the tourist wallet.

As I walk a lady comes at me asking if I want my hair braided. At first I say no...my hair is short after all so how does a braid stay in anyway ? I later relent and decide to give it a go a s she says it's no problem. While I wait for her to go to the supermarket ( yes...the supermarket !!! ) to get my colour, I have a henna tattoo done on my arm. Its the thing to do here and it only lasts a few weeks before fading off. At times there are 4 women braiding my hair...2 locals and 2 maasai. It takes 5 hours sitting on the beach in the sun. When it gets dark we have to move elsewhere where there is light. The power goes off so it's done by candlelight for a time. This is getting tedious to say the least but I cant leave until its finished. These poor women are getting as tired as me but its taking so long because I have thick hair which they didnt realise.The mozzies are biting...finish, please finish. The group will be wondering where on earth I have vanished to. DONE....it feels like a lead weight on my head. I'm not sure how long this will last before I rip them out but I'll give it a go. Sleeping is a mission too. oh well....the things we do !

The ferry back to Dar Es Salaam is much nicer thank goodness. After one night at Kerepehu Beach its off to Arusha.

The next adventure takes us into the Serengeti Plains and Ngorogoro Crater. Its a camping part of the tour....eek a tent !! We have one overland jeep for passengers ( theres only 7 of us at this point plus the driver ) and one jeep for the camping gear. There are 2 cooks. In the afternoon we have our first game drive in the Serengeti NP and lucky us.....we are priviledged to see a lion kill. I saw it coming. On the right side of the road was a herd of buffalo with two mothers and a baby at the back. On the left side of the road were 3 incoming lions who , at this point, had'nt seen the buaffalo. Once the first lion sighted the baby at the back her ears changed position and her eyes were fixed in only one direction. The kill was on !!!! Slowly at first then....she's off. The baby buffalo let out a bellow and the mothers turned and chased the lion. The other 2 lions had joined in and it was a case of cat and mouse ( or cat and buffalo in this case ) until the buffalo mothers were outwitted and outnumbered. The baby, at this stage' was still alive but grounded and we wished for the lions to finish it off and put it out of its misery.....which they did swiftly. Two more lions joined... Our guide had seen his first kill in 5 years on the job and told us we were so lucky to witness such a thing . Its not nice to see something killed but , at the same time, the lions need to survive too. Its the law of nature.

Our game drive continues.....would you know it ? Another rare occurance...a leopard sitting in a tree. Our driver has spotting eyes like you would not believe. Even when he tells us where to look we still can't see it at once. And he saw it while driving !! Leopards are night creatures and very shy so it's not often they are spotted.

On our way back to camp we are treated to something special again. Two cheetahs are stalking something in the grass. Apart from seeing elephants, zebra, giraffes and all manner of small grazers, it's been a lucky day this one. Arriving at camp, our tents are already up and the cooks are preparing our evening meal. All cooking is done in a concrete building with wire netting to keep out animals. This is a wild area and we are in the domain of the animals who can wander into the camp at leisure. We are told to stay in our tents at night. I hear lions not too far away and during the night the strange , high pitched noise of the hyena is right outside. What an amazing feeling knowing they are close....very close.

I am picked up at 5am the next morning as I have opted to do a sunrise hot air balloon flight over the Serengeti Plains. I am the only one from the group doing it but I understand that I will be flying with people from other groups and there will be 16 of us in the basket. On the way to the lift-off zone the driver stops at the office to pick up the pilot. We chat on the way....his name is Frank and he is a 62 year old American who has been flying for 30 years. I tell him I am a photographer and he is kind enough to place me on a corner section for good photo opportunities . He is also kind enough to have the balloon off the ground before the sun peeps up over the horizon. The basket consists of 8 sections with 2 people in each plus Frank. I am in a corner section with a man from Germany. The next corner section has a couple from England on their honeymoon. The rest are predominantly older Germans.

We lift off and proceed into the early morning air. Its peaceful and quiet except for Frank talking and boosting the balloon when firing up. There are few animals below but thats ok....I'm not really here to see animals at this point.

About half way through the flight Frank says we are going to descend a little and follow a river below. Thats ok I think to myself. In the distance I can see a stand of acacia trees. As we go lower I note that we are in a direct line with the trees and getting closer. Frank is behind me and I hear him firing up the balloon so I assume he has seen the trees too and is getting a little more altitude to clear the tops of them. As we get closer and closer it becomes dramatically clear that we will not miss and I look around at Frank in panic but its too late to say anything. What is this man doing ?? At the last moment I get down in the basket, hold on for dear life ,close my eyes and wait to die........ We hit the trees !!! There is a terrible noise as we hit the branches and the basket is tossed in all directions. It tips and tips back. People are screaming. I'm holding my breath and waiting to hit the ground or be tipped out....I'm not sure which is worst !!! After what seemed an eternity the basket rights and stops tossing. I stand up and look around and notice we are still flying. The German man is ok but the English man is doubled up in pain and resting his head on the edge of the basket. Everyone is in shock and disbelief. Frank is concentrating on keeping the balloon up and asks if everyone is ok. I tell him "No...this man is hurt " . He says nothing so I access the injured man. He has been hit across the head by the branches and has cuts and abrasions . Both his hands are cut, he can't move his neck and his shoulder hurts. His camera is broken too which doesnt seem important at this point.

Frank again asks if everyone is ok. I repeat " No,....this man needs medical attention ". I expected him to land and call up his men below and seek help....but , no, he keeps flying. I start to get annoyed and wonder how responsible this man is and what his priorities are. It is clear now that he intends to fly to the designated landing point and acts if nothing is wrong. He instructs us to put away our camera gear ( as if we are using it now !! ) and get down in the basket and hold our grip ropes. He says we may hit termite hills and bounce !! OMG...this is scary enough without a good landing. I can see through the cane sides that the ground is getting closer and I'm not liking this. It's like waiting for something bad to happen again . We , in fact, hit 3 termite hills and bang and crash along the ground. Eventually we stop and beside me I can hear an elderly gentleman groaning in fright. The pilot says to him " You're ok, you just dont know it yet "....such tact !!! The basket landing position is not up right but lying on its side so you're still hanging on but looking up at the sky. Its a horrible feeling and you dont know where you are. I was waiting to tip right over and be under the basket....it didnt happen.

The English man was asked to get out first. I didnt wait for instruction and got out anyway. Frank handed me the first aid box and asked me to take the injured man to the side and attend to him. His new bride was upset and could do nothing but worry. And rightly so. The other passengers were taken to the side and given the organised champagne and orange juice. How could they just act like nothing happened I wondered ?? Oh well....I had other things to think about. I opened the first aid box and assessed it's contents. Its full of dust and not well maintained. No surprises there !! I find some wipes to clean the blood and notice the branch marks across his head. He won't sit down when I ask so I dont push it. I clean him up and when he goes into shock and starts shaking , I ask for assistance from the crew standing nearby. He drops to the ground.My kiwi beanie is in my coat pocket so I put that on his head to keep him warm. I had noticed a silver emergency blanket in the box so wrapped him in it and yelled at the crew that he needed to be taken to a doctor... " NOW ". There is finally some action !! Soon he is taken away and I give his wife my contact details. After they are gone....I walk to the group. A nice German lady walks towards me and places her hand on my arm and asks if I am Ok ? When my focus is now gone , my own shock sets in. The rest of the day is ruined. Frank takes me aside later and admits it was his fault.....he didnt see the trees !!!! I cannot comprehend how that is wildly possible. With all his so called experience....how could that be possible ???? I am angry and shocked that he could endanger lives in such a manner. We are lucky to be alive.

And.....I dont even know that man's name. I hope he contacts me to let me know if he is ok now.

Its freezing tonight....camping on the rim of the Ngorogoro Crater. There are zebras walking around here and an elephant in the trees. Yep....theres the roar of lions again. The next morning we descend into the crater. There is a high concentartion of animals here. All co existing . And in amongst these animals walks two maasai men tending their cows. We're on the lookout for a rhino and we are lucky to see a black one in the distance. Life seems good for the animals here. the wildebeest have come from the north. As we ascend out of the crater I make the mistake of looking down and panic sets in as I get a flashback from the day before. The height factor kicks in. Deep breathing and keeping quiet sets me right eventually. No one notices.

Its time to leave this place behind. The Serengeti holds both good and bad memories. The game viewing here is special , thats for sure. The roads from Arusha to Nairobi , in Kenya, are horrible and rough , to say the least. The truck gets stuck in a roadworks diversion and we have to sit in the baking afternoon sun while the driver finds a way to get free from this problem. The truck is going nowhere in a hurry as the back end is stuck fast. No going forward and no going back. Patience and perseverance prevail and all's well in the end.

On arrival in the busy city of Nairobi, its time to say goodbye to our group. Its the end of tour number 3 for me. We have one last night together before some go further and some go home to their respective countries.

Tour 4 and my last week in Africa is impending.....

From Zimbabwe to......

It's ok children..... your mother did not disgrace herself on her night out. Loes and I went to The Boma...a very african restaurant. On entry we were given a colourful wrap to wear and escorted to our table and complimentary zulu beer. Our dinner consisted of african fare...warthog, ostrich, kudu, and accompanying salads etc. There was entertainment in the way of drummers...fantastic !. Then the audience was given a drum each and "taught " how to play. We made a mighty sound with approx 200 people playing drums at once. It was a great night out. Our last in Zimbabwe.

We met our next group and crew....11 ( predominantly german again ) and proceeded on a VERY LONG trip from Vic Falls to Lusaka in Zambia. The roads are very long, bumpy and dusty !!!!!. Its really looking like a third world country at this point. The following day is also long on our way to Chipata.

We are on our way to South Luangwa NP. On the way we have an electrical malfunction in the truck. Sparks and flames are shooting out of an appliance. We make a stop on the side of a road in the middle of nowhere. Within minutes there are 3 children coming out of the bushes...then 2 adults and 2 more youngters. One of our group, who has medical experience, notices that one of them ( a teenage girl we later come to know as Ruthie ) has a badly infected foot which she says ( in her limited english ) that she got as a result of a snakebite. We try to pool our medical supplies to help clean her foot but it is quickly apparent that she needs hospital care or she will lose her foot, if not her life !. Her older sister says they have no money and the doctor is too far away ....a typical story here in Africa. So we arrange to pick her up on our return 2 days later and take her to the nearest hospital.......the day arrives and I really would be surprised to see her waiting. The group has made a commitment to pay her costs and see that she is treated. We are nearing the place we first met on the side of the road and.....THERE SHE IS ! And the whole family. Ruthie and her sister, Sara and her baby are dressed in their best clothes. They are all smiling. They climb on the truck. Sara asks me to open the window....I thought because she wanted fresh air. But , no, it was to wave to people she had obviously told about what was to happen. On the side of the road also was an old man whom she told me was her grandfather. This experience for them would be one of a kind, thats for sure. It took one hour in the truck to drive to Chipata Hospital. It was a sunday so the doctor was not there. We paid the money directly to the hospital for her treatment and made arrangements for her to be seen the next day. They had family to stay with for the night so we also gave them money for food and transport back home.
We will never know what happened to Ruthie but we made a commitment to help her. There are many people here in her position and if it had not been for the electrical malfunction that day, we would never had met her. Just hope we helped save one life along the way.

South Luangwa NP is AMAZING. The wild life is abundant there. And not from a distant. We had lions walking along side the jeep one night...totally uncaring of our presence. The following night there were 7 lions sleeping on the side of the road. I took the opportunity for some great photos of course. We were instructed not to walk anywhere at night in the camp as it is within the park. Wild animals simply wander through the camp at night. This is truelly the african experience when it comes to wildlife. With one exception.....frogs and ghekkos in the bathroom !!! I dont like the feeling of creepie crawlies around when Im sleeping but I have to get used to it.

Now at Luwawa Forest. While socialising at night we strike up a conversation with an english girl here doing her PhD. She is also volunteering to help at a local school and asks if we would like to visit. After making arrangements with the one and only teacher ( for 83 pupils ) a few of us do the visit. It is totally impromptu and not an arranged tourist thing. What a total eye opener. The classrooms have dirt floors and the kids sit on the ground. A small blackboard leans against the wall and the sun comes through holes in the roof. Heartbreaking.....but...they are so happy ! This is their world and they know no different. Off to the side there is a small group of men building 2 new classrooms. This time in brick which they make one by one by hand. Two women collect water in containers which they carry on their heads. This is to mix cement. All the work is done by hand....there is no fancy machinery here and no running water. No other teachers will come here because of the conditions. And who could blame them. We take details for postage and say we will swend little things to help them. I have some bubbles again and the kids squeal with delight when they fly into the air. Such simple pleasures but they get so much delight. This is part of the cultural experience that Africa is.
Along the road is a village and I ask to stop and visit there too. There is an old man and he is delighted for us to see around his home. He speaks no english and has barely any teeth left but smiles profusely. He shows me his new house that is being built. It is of bricks but cant be finished because he cant afford it. The chickens run everywhere and without thinking, he puts his hand into a nest and produces 2 eggs which he has great pleasure in giving to me. I feel a little guilty accepting them as he needs the food but it would be offensive to refuse. And he holds my hand in both of his and insists I take them so I thank him. Such beautiful people here.

We have a few days of relaxation at the moment. Kande Beach in Malawi is devine and so peaceful. There is a local village just outside the compound and we are invited to do a visit and partake in a local dinner . The walk to the village takes half an hour and its sooooo hot and dusty. I dont think I will ever get my feet clean again !! We have kids hanging off our arms and chattering away. We visit another school but it is in stark contrast to the previous one and we quickly decide which one we prefer to assist !! Then off to a hospital room where pregnant ladies have their babies. The biggest problem here is malaria and mossie nets are needed. But when we leave and notice the medical assistant is able to afford to smoke...again we see clear.
The dinner is in the dark seated on a mat . Parrifin lamps stink the air. There is no power here. We have sweet potato soup, goat, fish, wild spinach, rice and casava. All this is cooked by the grandmother of our guide. Its quite nice but Im really cautious. A small group give us some singing and dancing entertainment. Because they know I am kiwi, 3 youngsters do the haka for me !!!! Imagine that....and they knew EXACTLY how to do it. How gorgeous is that !!! Apparently some other kiwiws taught them how to do it. We are invited to get up and dance with the children as our teachers. Great times.

I am at Chitimba Beach in Malawi at the moment. Its another beautiful spot. Tomorrow we make our way into Tanzania en route to Zanzibar....cant wait.

Zimbabwe

The mighty Victoria Falls is our first point of call when we arrive in Zimbabwe. Its the dry season but the water pouring over the falls is magnificant. Theres wild animals walking around but we're getting used to that now anyway. The temperatures are still very hot and drinking water is a must. Weve been placed in a 5 star resort of all places and its got magnificant views over into Zambia.

The first morning 3 of us have decided to go elephant riding. We are picked up at 6.30am and taken to these gentle but mighty beasts for a ride through the bushes. A guide with a gun is in front because , again, there are wild animals lurking. Indeed, we stumble on a herd of buffalo but to them, all they see is elephants and not us on their backs so they stay quiet. An hour later we disembark and are treated to breakfast under the trees by the river. Its serene in the early morning and theres only 5 of us there.

Next we are taken to walk with 2 lion cubs. I say cubs because they are only 18 months old but , trust me, one swipe or put a foot wrong and you're dead. They behave themselves fortunately and are just adorable. Kodak moments aplenty. Its getting hot and they are getting lazy so , my friend, Loes, and I have an appoitment for some pampering.

We are dropped off at a lodge and taken down to the back garden where we are treated to 2 hours of facial, massage, manicure and pedicure. Theres no soft , cushy beds with fluffy blankets and soft music. Its a hard board ( which becomes harder as time progresses....but who cares !! ) and only a sheet to cover. The sunlight filters through the trees above and theres a warm breeze. Strangers are wandering about but we pay them no mind ...theres more important things at hand afterall. trying to stay awake is a real mission and its over far too quick.

A quick bite back at the resort then off to shower and dress for the sunlight cruise on the Zambezi River. Again theres hippos and elephants....ho hum....

The decision to go to the markets the next day is a fiasco. Pressure..pressure...pressure...they are all out to get a dollar. Ive taken some socks and t shirts to trade and I have luck but ...what a performance in the afternoon heat. I got what I wanted but was it worth the hassle ???

I must saqy the people here in Zimbabwe are very friendly. They are some of the most accommodating people I have come across since being in Africa. And at no time have I felt unsafe. The bad part, apparently, is 100 km from here.

Tour #2 has finished and our group has gone their separate ways. We had a very friendly bunch this time and all got on well together with lots of laughs. Even the crew said we were the best ( but they would ). One remains with me and thats my new friend, Loes, from Holland. Shes carrying on with me and the new crew and travellers ( who we are yet to meet as I write this ) until we get to Nairobi in 3 weeks time.

Tonight her and I are going to a very African restaurant where, we are told , they will have live African music , drums and dancing. Participation is encouraged !! Uhh...oohh..

Watch this space :-)

On to Namibia

We leave the greeness of Capetown behind and head NW towards the Namibian border. Theres a new crew , a new truck and new fellow travellers. The landscape quickly changes and becomes dry and arid. After a stop at a local winery we eventually arrive at the border.

Our first night is on the banks of the Orange River. Its a gorgeous spot. An early morning canoe up the river the next morning is an option so off I go. Never done it before so I'll give it a go. Only went into the reeds once so thats not too bad is it ?? The water is calm and theres lots of bird life...very serene.

The next day is a walk on the rim of the mighty Fish River Canyon...the 2nd biggest in the world. Its hot and dusty but an awesome sight. We arrived at our accommodation in the dark after driving over some of the most hideous roads imaginable. We are treated to what is known as a " Namibian Massage " !!! I feel like every bone in my body has gone out and come back in again 10 times over. One is not right in my neck and the manager of the establishment kindly puts it where it should be ( sorry Martin...had to be done ). Would you know it ???? theres 6 kiwis in the restaurant . This place is in the back of beyond and theres people from home !!

The dunes of Sossusvlei are totally amazing but to get there to see the full effect one needs to be there as the sun rises. Its worth it !! A photographers dream and ever changing with the light. I passed on climbing Dune 45 though and took photos instead.

After crossing the tropic of Capricorn , we arrive in Swokopmund. Its cold and damp after being in temperatures around 30 deg only a short time beforehand. Its the adventure capitol so options are awaiting. I choose to go quadbiking in the Namib Desert sand dunes. WOW....soooo much fun . I thought it wouold be a slow ride but NO...its hard out up and down the dunes. At half time we park the bikes and sandboard. I thought the dunes at Opononi were fast but nowhere near as fast or as big as these ones.

A real treat for me was visiting the Himba tribe and learning about their culture. We arrived at sunset which accentuated their skin colouring. I had taken some bubbles for the kids and was quickly inundated with them trying to get them out of my hands. I was surprised at how strong they were !. After a cultural lesson to learn their ways of being , I asked if I could have my face painted as they do and was allowed the priviledge of one of the ladies doing it for me. They use ochre and buttermilk. The guide took a photo to put in his book because he said he hadnt seen anyone do that before. It wasnt easy to get off but it was necessary as I didnt think the hotel owners would appreciate a red pillow the next morning.

Etosha National Park would have to be the most beautiful place so far in respect to viewing the wild animlas. They are prolific here and very easy to see. Zebras and elephants like you would not believe. How great it is to see them wandering free in their own environment and to be part of their space. Theres great expanses of openess and they coulodnt care less about us. Photo opportunities are endless here and its one place I would love to come back to .

The Okovango Delta in Botswana is another such place that needs to be experienced. While we were unlucky to not see hippos , we could certainly hear them. Right outside the door in the water grunting away. Twice during the day we were taken in mokoros ( dug out canoes ) to Chiefs Island and walked amongst the bushes looking for wild animals. There are lions here too and its more than a little unnerving wondering how our guide would ever save us if one appeared as he has no weapon. Thankfully we didnt have to find out. We did see animals but they kept their distance. One night a big bull elephant decided to swim across from the island and crash the palm trees only metres from my tent. Apparently he comes every 12 days looking for palm nuts. Theres no stopping the beast as we found out.

Botswanas NP is Chobe and here we are treated to great views of our much awaited hippos from the Chobe River cruise. Game is prolific here too especially elephants. Soooo much to see and do .

Soon we will be in Zimbabwe....

An introduction to the african culture began with a visit to a zulu village. There is a patriarch and matriarch and numerous young children. Who they belong to or what relationship they hold was not told to us. The older children go to school....they walk each day along the dirt road. There are dogs and chickens everywhere and rubbish. They need more clothes so I will endevour to send some when I get home. I notice one of the girls has sores on her head . We are permitted in to 3 of the dwellings...the meeting house, the bedroom and the cooking house. The meeting house is where children go to read ( the books are tatty and old ) and discuassions are held between adults. It is also a place to give blessings and prayer. The bedroom consists of a bed with a sunken mattress and little else. We are told of the custom of when a baby is born the man is not allowed to sleep with the woman for 6 months to prevent further children. he is encouraged to sleep on the opposite side of the room or within another hut in the village. Sometimes the man goes to another village which the woman does not like as he has the opportunity to find another woman. He is actually permitted 4 wives but she must never look at another man !! There is a strict custom , too, relating to death and the process od releasing the spirit to the ancestors. It didnt seem that far removed from our own beliefs. The cooking is done over a fire inside the cook house. All three huts have only dirt floors and thatched rooves and are very small. It must be hideaously cold in winter.

Apart from the game drives and the culture , there is also the fun stuff. Along the way are optional activities . Funny....the only ones to participate were me and the Aussies ( The 3 oldest of the group ). We went to Tsitsikamma to do a canopy tour . This consisted of being kitted up in the required gear and being driven into the forest and set up on a flying fox . The highest point was 30 metres above the ground with 10 different sections. We were required to leap off a platform into nowhere and go whizzing through the trees like a monkey. It was fun !! Letting go of each platform was the hardest part and some levels were really fast.

Number 1 , however would HAVE to be the shark cage diving. That was TOTALLY AWESOME. The sea conditions were 100%. It was like a millpond. There were 16 divers and I chose to go in the last group of 5. It was the end of the day and we got longer in the water. Everyone was geared up in full dive gear and got into the cage which was attached to the side of the boat. This company does not allow scuba or snorkel as they say it frightens the sharks away. So it was a matter of holding the breath and going under...literally. I climbed in last and got a good spot on the end of the cage. I had an underwater camera but having to hold the breath, try and stay underwater ( needed more weight ), holding on and trying not to have body parts protruding outside the cage ( uuhh oohh...forgot that bit !! ) , hold the camera in one hand and take pics all at the same time..was not an easy task. There was no time to use the view finder so it was literally a case of hit and miss. I missed the golden opportunity when one shark leapt up right by my face ( and I mean ..right by my face !! ) with its jaws open. It came from nowhere and I got such a fright I leapt back in the cage. I heard, and felt , the thump as it whacked against the side where I had just been standing !! AWESOME . I REALLY MUST GO BACK ONE DAY AND DO IT AGAIN. The conditions were so good the skipper decided , at the end of diving, that he would trawl a piece of black rubber ( to a shark it looks like a seal ) behind the boat and see if he could entice the sharks to breach ( jump out of the water ). He said he doesnt take clients out on such excursions so it would be a real treat for us. The skipper has 25 years experience and said he has only seen this happen maybe 3 or 4 times per year. Well......we saw it happen twice !!! And I have the dvd to prove it. What an awesome end to an already awesome day.

In the past 3 weeks I have travelled through South Africa and Swaziland . It has been diverse both in activities and landscape. Ive seen more than 25 different wild animal species and numerous bird species. Ive seen poverty beyond comprehension. People walking along the side of the road pushing wheelbarrows with their supplies going to shacks made of stone with rusty corrugated rooves held down with rocks. Ive slept with the wildlife. Trekked the mountains. Sunbaked on the beach. Been chased by a bat. Dived with sharks. Pretended to be a monkey. Been winetasting in Stallenbosh. Patted a cheeta. Eaten African fare with my fingers. Been to the most southern point of the continent. Experienced the history that was Nelson Mandelas life. And made new friends. So much diversity in a short time. I have taken 100's of photos and there is still 2 more months of travel ahead.

The next leg begins tomorrow ( Aug 19 ) and takes 42 days from Capetown to Nairobi. Internet is scarce here so not sure when I will be able to update. Will keep you posted.

Gotta go pack my bag ( again !! )

Ciao

animals and more

I meet my fellow travellers...there are two guides, Michieu and Gabriel ( both young sth africans ) and twelve in the group including me. And Australian couple, an Italian couple, one from Austria and the rest from Germany. Unfortunately this majority would later create cultural difficulties within the group which ended in tension.

We set off for Mpumalanga and visit Pilgrims Rest, Mac-Mac Falls and Gods Window. Its a bit cloudy up high so the view isnt ideal. Then into the famous Kruger National Park which is home to the Big 5. An early morning game drive is arranged and I have to miss out...I am running a temp of 39.6 and decide to stay in bed which is disappointing. I do the night drive later which is a big mistake...its absolutely freezing in the open air jeep even though I am sitting in the front with the heater. Not well, thats for sure. The following day I am feeling a little better and my camera fingers are itching ....... the next days are spent game viewing and long travelling. For two nights in the Mkuzi Game Reserve I sleep in what is called a permanent tent. Its in the bush and no one is within hearing distance if I need someone. The animals are walking around outside and there is a warning to keep the outside zipper closed at all times as the baboons will come and take your things !! I hear hyenas calling in the night and the wind is blowing the tent and making creaking noises. I think I'll keep the light on all night ...for all the good its going to do ! It actually turns out to be an amazing experience....a true sense of being with the wild life .

A visit to the Drakensburg Mountains provides a change of scenery and climate. The air is brisk. Our accommodation is in chalets and later in the evening I notice something flying around inside. It turns out to be a bat !.Im told they are harmless and they like insects not meat. Dont care....Im not sleeping with a bat in the dark !! I enlist the help of several people to get rid of the thing...all feeling sorrier for the bat than me. Huh !! Eventually we turn out the light and use a red light to attract it outside.

Theres only electricity here between the hours of 5pm and 10pm and its generated. Outside of that its kerosene lanterns. Quaint !! A cuppa is made using a billy on gas. Tastes good though.

The next day is decided to take a gentle hike for a couple of hours. Pigs might fly !! Turns into a 5 hour marathon with me being left on my own in the wilderness. I was in a group with 4 germans and they were so busy talking to each other in their lingo they took no notice of me. I trekked for 2 hours on my own across the rocks and dust...too scared to look sideways in case I saw baboons. They are known to attack humans as they equate them to food. I was continually conscious that if I fell or tripped and hurt myself that no one would know where I was. I was following a guided track so I knew it would eventually lead me back to camp. the track was only the width of two feet so was narrow and uneven. By this time I had only half a bottle of water and I was a long way from the finish line. The sun was blazing Another thing to be conscious of. By the time I got back my fingers and feet were swollen and I was dehydrated. Needless to say, when I told the guide that I had been left up there alone, she was not happy.

Here at last

Well, fellow friends and followers....I am finally here in Africa. The 35 hour flight on Emirates A380 was a breeze. The staff are highly professional and friendly which made it a pleasure to fly

I arrived in Joberg a few days earlier than tour start day as I wanted to acclimatise. Little did I know that a week later I would still be bright eyed and bushy tailed at 2am and still on kiwi time. At least it got me used to functioning on only a few hours sleep each day in readiness for long days.

I decided not to waste these first days and booked a sightweeing tour of the city and Soweto. Joberg apparently has been voted the most dangerous city in the world. It does not have a safe feel about it and I was told not to go walking anywhere on my own. As if !! Only 10% of the total population of Sth Africa is white. There is rubbish lying everywhere..in the gutters, on the streets,,,everywhere. Its filthy. People are wandering around and there are few white people to be seen in the area where I am. There are some very nice cars being driven around, I note. These belong to the business people. There is a group of men standing in a dirt patch hacking at some animal and a fire is lit nearby...most likely to cook it. Right next to the street. I see this more than once. Most of the houses have high fences which have a rolled up layer of barbed wire running along the top. Some are electrified. I wonder if it keeps out the bad element.

Soweto, in comparison felt a little safer. There are no high fences or barbed wire. A class system exists...upper, middle and lower. The higher class live in nice brick houses while only a short distance down the road there are people who live in shacks with no electricity or running water. The little kids come running...they are dirty and smell bad but they are smiling . I gave them some shiny stickers to put on their hands.

Soweto was established in 1804 and has a population of 3 million. Only four of these are white...2 reverends and 2 charity ladies. It covers an area of 130 sq metres. Its very different to what is portrayed on tv. There are four large shopping malls, sealed roads and traffic lights, and businesses. Across the road from the slums is KFC....every kids dream is to be able to eat there ! Soweto is certainly a place of diversity.

countdown..

It's the beginning of July and it's countdown !! Yee haaa...finally. It's been years in the making.

I'm vaccinated, documented, seated, insured, accommodated, tested, financially depleted but very excited.

There's still things to do and people to see before liftoff but I'm sure I'll be ready .

Watch this space........