AFRICA REVISITED

                               MARVEL OF THE MARA

My travel arrangements now have been done by Aramati Safari's who are based in Nairobi. John has taken care of everything for me and picks me up from my Nomad drop-off point. He knows I have been travelling already for over two months non-stop and tells the hotel receptionist not to disturb me as I need rest. AAwww...he really does think of everything.

Today John has organised a couple of excursions for me as I have a free day before heading off on safari. His driver takes me to a bead factory...Kazuri Beads. I'm taken on a guided tour of the factory and shown how all the processes take place from beginning to end. This factory started off with two Kenyan women and now employs over 300, most of whom are single mothers. It also has it's own clinic and provides free medical care for it's employees and their families. These women are very skilled and their produce, which includes necklaces, bracelets and unique pottery, is exported around the world. Sales go back to helping these single mothers. It's a very interesting visit.

 

It begins like this....from balls of clay

 

......painting, then firing..

 



....to assembling

 

Beaded wall hanging

While I am in the area, my driver takes me past Karen Blixen House. Karen was an author and penned the now famous Out of Africa which became an Academy Award winning movie.
My next visit is to the David Shelrick Elephant Orphanage. This is the world's most successful centre for elephant rescue and rehabilitation. Many are victims of poaching or human/wildlife conflict. Once stabilised they are moved away and it can take from 8-10 years before they make the transition back into the wild.



This orphan baby would not leave the security of it's keeper

 

It's the first day of my Kenyan safari. This is to be a private tour as I want to concentrate on my photography. John arrives as he wants to introduce me to the guide I will be having for the next few weeks. His name is Dedan. After a short briefing about what to expect over the coming weeks, we leave Nairobi and head for the Maasai Mara. Along the way we pass the lookout to the Great Rift Valley which stretchs as far as the eye can see. There's also a stop-off at a curio shop. It's full of wonderful carvings and souvenirs and there's lots of tourists here.
The final stretch of road towards the Mara is what can only be described as diabolically rough. I've ridden over bumpy roads before throughout Africa, but nothing compares to this !

Arriving at my lodge...Sarova Mara...I am greeted by a young maasai with a moist face towel before joining a receptionist for registration. I note she greets me using my name before being seated with a glass of juice and papers to sign. It's already lunchtime so I'm shown to the restaurant. It's big and authentically African. The meals are buffet and there's several courses to choose from....so I do. Delicious.
This lodge is tented...although these are not your ordinary tents. They have a solid base and a wooden roof over the top and are simply gorgeous. All the emenities of home. The grounds are picturesque and the tents are enveloped in trees.
3.30pm is the organised time for tea/coffee before an afternoon game drive at 4pm. It's the season of the Great Migration which I have timed carefully. Millions of wildebeest , zebra and plains game migrate up from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Mara every year and they are here now. There's wildebeest everywhere...amazing. My first game drive and there are 7 lions ( one of them crossed eyed  ) and lots of other animals. As the sun goes down we head back to the lodge as rules state all vehicles must be back before dark. There's a nice bar here with very friendly staff.....it's a pleasant end to my first day in the Mara.

I am transfering to another lodge today on the opposite side of the Mara so we do a game drive on the way. Wildebeest are here in their thousands, buffaloes, zebras, impalas..... It's my first sighting of Mara cheetahs this time and we follow this pair for some time. There's vehicles around them but they don't seem to mind and walk amongst them coming right up close to the doors. At one point one of them climbs a big tree stump and gets a good vantage point. They both scent mark then wander off.They deliberate whether to use energy on hunting or not....and decide not and plop down to rest. There's a view point on Look Out Hill that sits high above the plains. The Mara spreads out across to Tanzania. There's a hint of green in the grass. We peruse the river banks nearby to see if there are to be any imminent wildebeest crossings...there aren't. So it's on to my next lodge ..Mara Serena.

Mara Serena sits high on a plateau and is architecturally different. Every room has a view of the Mara plains. It's gorgeous. It's a busy place with lots of tourists , friendly staff and views to die for.

The view over the Mara from Serena Lodge

 



The reason I come here is to do night game drives. Mara Serena is the only lodge in the Mara Reserve that allows them. It's time for lunch then an afternoon game drive at 4pm. There doesn't appear to be much in the way of game here in this area. It's certainly not seething like it was the day before at Sarova. We make our way down to the river and try our luck.  Maribou storks vie for position with the vultures over the spoils of unfortunate wildebeest who didn't make a successful river crossing. There's carcasses along the bank, piled one on top of another. Testimont to the struggle against instinct. A large herd of wildebeest and zebras are gathering on the river bank. The vultures are waiting patiently for the outcome. It's fascinating watching this marvel of nature. The tv programs don't show what really happens.....that it takes it's course over a long period of time . I always thought the animals came down to the river and just jumped. Not so . There's a process that unfolds. They come....they look across the other side, they listen to the calls of those already crossed, they ponder......then leave. They run away...instinct stops them...they come back....repeat, repeat, repeat....until finally one will take the plunge and it's all on. There's only momentary hesitation then they are airborne before splashing into the muddy waters of the Mara. There's always the real threat of a croc attack but none are forthcoming at this time. Those that cross reach the other side. The rest.....are restless and nervous and run away. The positive aspect of this particular crossing is the fact that the ground on the other side is flat so there are no restrictions. Crossing from there back to where they came from is another story which we would learn the following day. We are lucky to see two crossings this afternoon but it's time to get back...it's almost 6pm and I have my night game drive at 7pm.

 

 

 

 

On the way back we see eight lions together followed by a male and two cubs wandering alone in the tall grasses.
I had pre-booked the night drives from home thinking that they would be in demand at this time of year. However, I am surprised to find that there is only one other accompanying me this evening. We're using a vehicle from the lodge this time. It's 4x4 and has plastic 'windows' which are rolled up for good viewing.It has a pop-top roof too like I am used to. It's 7pm so off we go. We are lucky enough to see a rare aardwolf plus several dikdik, hares, lots of impala, wildebeest, and hippoes which have come onto the land to graze during the night. We are back at the lodge two hours later for late dinner and it's a very tired traveller that eventually gets into bed this evening.

I'm still tired when I wake the next morning but that's not going to slow me down. It's another game drive at 7.30am and we're back to the river again. How lucky to see another crossing. At this point they are still crossing from right to left. And still hesitant and nervous. We sit for almost two hours watching them before one of them takes the leap. They've disappeared down behind some trees but we can still see the entry point into the water. It's rocky and slippery and the point where they touch land on the other side is next to a bank.....only metres away from flat land. One wonders why they choose the places they do and make it difficult. It's interesting behaviour and fascinating to watch.
We're having a picnic lunch today which enables us to stay out all day. Dedan finds an acacia tree on a hill overlooking the Mara and it's such a surreal feeling for someone like myself , who comes from a country with no dangerous animals, to be sitting here in one of the most spectacular places on earth, amidst the African wildlife....eating lunch !
There's elephants amongst the trees , lots of hippoes both in and out of the water and zebras rolling in the dust, as we make our way back to the river in anticipation of another crossing. It's quiet here at the moment and this enables us to get a good vantage point while we wait. The spot we park can only accommodate so many vehicles so it's good to be here first. Several baboons make their way along the river bank stopping to feed along the way. There's a bit of rivallry between two of the males and a fight breaks out with screeches and screams. Standing up in the van, I can see a massive croc sunning itself just below us.

It doesn't take long and vehicles are starting to gather....on both sides of the river. There's an imminent crossing. This time from opposite sides...left to right. I can hear the unusual grunting noises of the wildebeest from over behind the trees before they eventually run down to the waters edge. They are interspersed with zebras and they are the more bold of the two and walk into the water first. Initially it is just to drink. Intuition tells them to be vigilant and it shows in their behaviour. Any sudden movement and there is a scurry backwards to dry land. I'm watching this big croc hoping for some action....but he's too big and lazy and most likely already with a full belly.
The animals are made all the more nervous by this alien 'thing' that suddenly flies through the air above us and them. What on earth is that strange sound ?  I don't belive this. Someone is operating a radio controlled gadget that flies through the air hovering over the crossing. Most likely recording , but the animals take off in fright back from where they came. It's some time before instinct draws them back to the water. 
At some point one of the zebras starts making the call. A small group of them start swimming across. There's a current so they have a job going against it. They have chosen a direct line across to the other side and have an easy access to get out.....a furrow in the side of the bank carved out by previous crossings. Then off they go....running towards their next feed. The zebra who made the call does not cross however. He runs back up amongst the large herd of wildebeest and, with head held high,  looks across and watches the outcome. He continues to call and then into the river go the wildebeest.

Crossing the Mara River

The sentinel who makes the call

Again , the wildebeest make a bad judgement call and swim to a bank which presents challenges. At one part there is no access and , after clambering up over wet rocks, have nowhere to go. Turning left and right, some fall back into the river. At the same time, masses of animals are still coming across and there becomes a huge backlog in the water. I hear the calling of them , paniced, and see some of them lose all their energy and flow with the tide...drowned ! There is a large pile of dead carcasses from previous crossings and the wildebeest are clawing over them looking for somewhere to go. And also over those that have made it but have no strength to stand up. It's horrific....but part of the spectacle that is nature and why this is classed as part of one of the wonders of the animal world. Eventually those that cross either find somewhere to get out or....still have nowhere to go. There are still wildebeest standing on the side of the bank...totally exhausted...wet and despondent...and I wonder at this time if they will survive. I think not. The vultures will feed well today.

Nowhere to go

The night drive this time sees four of us. The skies are looking a tad gloomy but we set off with the windows open. We have a driver, plus a guide who stands up in the back with us. It's already dark. We see a cheetah prowling through the bushes unaware that it is walking towards a hyena....natural enemies. We follow with interest to see what will happen....but they pass by without even acknowledging each other. The guide this evening is very informative. He can tell by the shape and colour of the eyes exactly which animal it is in the dark. There's several pairs of bat-eared foxes skittering through the grass looking for insects and rodents to eat. Lots of cape hares, impalas, zebras, more hippoes grazing, dikdiks and gazelles. I'm allowed to hold the spotlight so stand up on the back seat scanning it from side to side. The skies open and down comes the rain. The driver gets out and puts the plastic windows down. It's quite cold now too. He makes a U turn on the road and requires all 4 wheel drive power to get unstuck from the mushy ground. It's a cumbersome vehicle so takes several points to make the turn. The rain stops ...up with the plastic again. We disturb a very large herd of wildebeest who charge around in the dark. The driver stops and turns off the lights. I can't see a thing in the pitch black ( and am only minimally comforted by the fact that wildebeest can ). I can hear their hooves thundering right past my window and nervously wait for one to come through and land on my lap. Scary scenario I must admit and I'm pleased when they've gone.

We head back to Sarova Lodge again with a game drive along the way, arriving in time for lunch. They remember me from a few days before and I am pleasantly surprised to be told that I am to be upgraded. Even the maasai remembers me and remarks that last time I arrived in the front seat and this time I am in the back. Interesting :-) I am staying in tent #57 and it is simply divine. The bathroom is bigger than my one at home ! It's quite a walk from the main building, nestled amongst the trees with a little bridge over a lake along the way. Just gorgeous.
We're back amongst the masses of migratory animals again here. Although we did get to see four river crossings at Serena, the game drives during the day did not produce much. Here at Sarova the wildebeest are in their thousands upon thousands. Mixed with topi and other plains game. There's a very handsome male giraffe eating a bush right on the road. Dedan switches off the motor and coasts towards it ever so quietly. It's curious but , after checking us out,  goes back to eating.

It's hot and we find the cheetah brothers resting in the shade of a bush. Not very good for photo opportunities boys ! Later in the day we would find another cheetah walking along the road and get the chance to follow it. Magic ! It wanders around the assembled vehicles before scent marking a tree and we leave it to wander off.
It's also my first time to see a giraffe sitting down. Usually during the day they are up and walking / eating.

There's a huddle of vans gathered around some bushes but it's difficult to see what they are looking at. We wait our turn and see a lioness preening her cub. It grabs her nose with it's front feet while she licks it. It's ever so cute but she keeps it in the bushes away from us and keeps a wary watch in the process. It's almost 7pm and the sun has set by the time we arrive back at the lodge. It's been an awesome day of game driving and it's time for a hot shower to wash off the Mara dust,and a cold wine at the bar before a scrumptious dinner. On walking into my tent, I see the mosquito net has been drawn around my bed, the bedside lamps are on and slippers placed on the floor beside my bed. After dinner I would return to find a hot water bottle warming the sheets. Oh yeah....I could get used to this. Love it !! Thanks Peter.

Lying in bed , I can hear the zebras calling in the darkness.....and hyenas.. and lions....bliss.

Dedan and I leave at 7am next morning and it doesn't take long before we see a gathering of vehicles again....a telltale sign of something interesting. Most likely cats. Sure enough..two male lions. At first appearance it looks like they are rivals with one invading the other's territory. There's snarling and growling as they put distance between each other.But, within minutes, they come together and run off . Rules of the Mara state no driving off the roads and the lions have taken off where we cannot go. Most of the vehicles take a road that hopefully will get them close. Dedan goes in another direction. We can still see the lions.....they are running towards a line of bushes. Theres a road that goes along the front of the bushes but Dedan takes another one behind . I quietly think to myself that we have just missed an opportunity as we are on the wrong side of the bushes. I would soon come to learn his skills at predicting animal behaviour is spot-on. Within minutes , both lions appeared through the bushes running directly towards our van. Fantastic !

 

And where was everyone else ?   On the wrong side.
Once back into open grassland, the brothers spot a herd of wildebeest on top of the hill. The wildebeest spot them too. It's a mad dash to keep up with them and try and stay on a road that keeps us within good range. Everyone else is doing the same thing and , on some level, I don't like that we are encroaching in their domain ...albeit keeping at a distance. As the lions get closer to the wildebeest they start to run....one brother always looking across at the other as if in a silent language. Waiting for the final rush. But the wildebeest are on to them and take off . Both wildebeest and lions go in a direction we cannot follow.

There's a cheetah with a kill only a matter of metres off the road. There's two vehicles parked right beside it and I ask Dedan to go closer too but he won't. He tells me one of those vehicles has a policeman in it. As they drive away a few minutes later , the policeman tells him not to go near it and to stay on the road. As they drive out of sight , I get a very quick two minutes right beside it to get my shots and we are back on the road again !!

We come to a river with lots of hippoes lazily blobbing in the water....grunting as only hippoes can do. Then a shallow river bed where herds of wildebeest are passing through at a fast pace. To get to the bottom they are leaping...and I mean leaping....down a steep face. There's clouds of dust beneath their feet and billowing into the air.They splash through the water and disappear into the trees.....all is quiet again.

 

 

 

We see large herds of zebras next. I enjoy photographing them....looking at their patterns and looking for interesting ways they place themselves together, watching their interactions. There's a waterhole right next to the road we're on now and lots of wildebeest are wanting to get to the other side. They are nervous because we are parked there watching. Then, all of a sudden, they leap into the water and charge through and up the other side to the grass. They are just like sheep...once one goes the others follow.

When they realise we are not a threat, they return to drink.Rounding off our morning game drive is a hyena under a tree....very wise as it's very hot by this time of day. Time to go back to the lodge. As I walk to my room, there are two tiny dikdiks hiding in the bushes. These little animals are only about 35-40 cm in height and weigh only 3-5kg. They're very timid and as I try to get closer, they scurry away.

4pm...and it's out again to find more animals. Full time game driving here in the Mara. We find the most magnificant male lion I have ever seen. He's huge and has a long, dark mane. He really is a king. There's five females to the side. He's sitting in the late afternoon sun and it gets a bit hot so he gets up and walks to the shade of one of the parked vehicles where he plops himself down. Not good for photos in that light. We're close now and I can see he has blood in his mouth and coming from his nose. Maybe he's been in a fight. After a big yawn he gets up and begins to walk. Once again Dedan gets into a good spot for an oncoming shot.

 

We spend quite some time with this mighty creature before it's time to make our way back to the lodge. Not long before we get there, we come across two lionesses and a sub-adult male preparing to make a kill....low to the ground and eyeing up some wildebeest as they creep stealthily closer. Unfortunately, we are not able to see the outcome as the light is fading fast and we need to get back inside the confines of the lodge.

The next morning Dedan hears on the van radio that a black rhino has been sighted. As always, the drivers do not speak in English so I have no idea what they are saying. But , I have learnt quickly that if Dedan speeds up, and without ever saying anything to me, I know it's time to get to my seat and hang on. The faster he goes, the bigger the animal is we are going to, so there's always dust and stones flying. Already there are lots of vehicles. The rhino is in the bushes but it soon appears into a clear space. It comes out briefly before disappearing again. Once again, Dedan predicts with accuracy where it will come out and sure enough.....I am able to get a head-on clear shot. Rhinos have very poor eyesight and when it walks towards a parked van,it takes exception and lunges at it. Just a warning this time though. I notice this rhino has a growth beneath it's right eye and would later come to identify the same one in a totally different part of the Mara. Awesome experience as these rhinos are endangered.

Our next sighting is a lioness under a bush with a morning kill. It's difficult to get photos as vehicles are blocking my view and she keeps getting behind the leaves. But, eventually Dedan makes his move and I end up being the only one in position to get photos face-on. There's vultures up in the nearby trees...waiting. In fact, during the morning we would come across several fresh kills being picked over by scavangers.
 Moving on we come across the biggest mass of wildebeest I have seen so far. Dedan stops the van in the middle of the road and turns off the motor. 360 deg wildebeest !! What a sight. What a sound. Absolutely , totally amazing experience. This is what the migration is all about. I take photos and video but , looking back, they simply don't do justice to the real event. Seeing is believing and we stay here for some time taking it all in.
We drive off towards the lodge and observe a herd of elephants drinking at a stream. There's a cheeky baby and it comes closer with it's truck in the air sniffing before running with ears flapping back to it's mother.
In the afternoon we investigate an area of the Mara I haven't yet been to. It's tucked behind a hill and the valley is full of animals. It has a totally different perspective to the wide, open plains I usually see. There's loads of zebras, buffalo herds grazing and chewing their cud, wildebeest..... I'm unaware at this point Dedan is looking for a leopard he has heard about on the radio. As usual he hasn't said anything to me and is disappointed when it's time to head back and he hasn't found it. Maybe tomorrow............. On the way back Dedan suddenly stops and, lying in the middle of the road, is a puff adder....my first ever sighting of a snake in Africa.

We're leaving Sarova today so we have an early morning ..6.30am ..game drive. We have no sooner left the lodge and see a gathering of vehicles. On top of one of them is a cheetah. The hatchs are open and the tourists inside appear very nervous, although excited. One of them has his video camera pointed upwards on the cat while one of the women is hiding beside the seat. I chat to them later at the lodge and find they are from Australia and , now time has passed, they think it's quite funny. The cheetah is surveying the territory and , a few minutes later, stands, stretchs and walks across the open hatchs and leaps onto another vehicle. The sun is just rising and I am able to position myself to get a silhoette photo. What a way to start the day !!

 

 

 

There's another lion kill before we head back for my last breakfast at Sarova. It's time to pack my bag and check out. I go to the restaurant, bar and reception and say my goodbyes to all the wonderful people who have made my short stay so enjoyable. I tell them I will return......little did I know at that time that I would be back only three weeks later !!!!

We do a game drive enroute to my next accommodation...Ilkiliani Camp...arriving as planned for lunch. To get here we have come through the Talek Gate.This is a different concept and grading. My tent is right on the banks of the river this time. I'm told that baboons reside under a big tree nearby and often, if you're very lucky, a leopard can be seen from the meal tent ,walking along the opposite bank . I don't get to see it. In the afternoon we are back through the gate and in search of more wildlife. We are now in a different part of the Mara again. It's quiter here again...like it was near Serena. But we get to see two hyenas hiding under some bushes out of the sun and more lions. This time sitting on a bank so a different vantage point for photos.

Our morning game drive is concentrated on following the Mara River and searching in thick trees looking for that elusive leopard. We haven't seen one since getting to the Mara.Going in both directions and deep into the bushes...no luck even though this is prime habitat for a leopard.  We do see a pair of cheetahs , lions, ground hornhill and giraffes though.
The afternoon drive.....my final one in the Mara ( or so I thought ) we didn't go through the gate but instead explored the surroundings elsewhere. Animals are still in abundance and the terrain is different again making the whole experience very interesting.

There's a storm tonight....bless the rains in Africa.

My 8 days in the Mara comes to an end. Following the migration and witnessing the spectacle is an experience of a lifetime. The Mara holds an abundance of beauty ...nature at it's best. My stay at the lodges , and especially Sarova and it's super friendly staff, have left lasting memories. But, my time here and my photographic opportunities would not have been achieved without the professionalism, dedication and experience of my driver/ guide Dedan.But, after all of this, he is disappointed that we didn't find a leopard and I tell him, then , that there is unfinished business. I discuss plans with him to postpone my flight home and come back again. Life is too short.

I shall return....................

The next chapter takes us on a two week journey around Kenya and a week in Mombasa.
Then hello again Mara.

To be continued....................

 

AFRICA REVISITED

VICTORIA FALLS TO NAIROBI

 



The crew have gone and it's free time to do whatever our individual plans are. I think it's time I get these braids tidied up a bit so get taken into town to a salon. It's a bit different to what I'm used to back home but the job gets done and soon I'm back at the lodge. While I'm sitting eating lunch, I recognise one of the drivers from another truck. It's my guide from 2010 !! And he still remembers me  . Must have made a lasting impression for some reason. Best I don't think too hard about that . We chat for a while and coincidently he is taking his clients to the same hotel that I am moving to. I get a ride.

It's 7pm and I am meeting some of my group at a restaurant called The Boma. I came here in 2009 and loved it so recommended my group to join me. We are greeted outside and given authentic African clothing to wear. Once at the table we drink African beer and the buffet is all game meat complimented with all sorts of vege dishes. Im going for the warthog, ostrich and chicken. A face painter comes to the table so I get a lion painted on my forehead.There's live entertainment in the form of drumming. Everyone is given a drum and asked to participate. Then....as usual...they drag people from the audience to make fools of themselves dancing. Yep.....me again !! It's a great night out and we are the last to leave. It's got a lot of character to this place.

The Boma, Zimbabwe

I'm on my own now so decide today I will do the Lion Walk. It's another of the things I have done before and enjoyed so why not make the most of an opportunity and re-do ? On arrival at the Encounter, within the Zambezi NP, we are shown a short video and given a talk about the 4 stage program the lions go through before being released back into the wild. Then a safety briefing ( all important ). It's a short walk to find the lions. They are free and roaming and today I have the opportunity to get hands on with a brother and sister aged one year. I am able to crouch behind the sister and , in her lazy state, am able to hold up her foot and rub her stomach. These are not pets but used to human interaction. However they are still wild animals and have to be treated as such. She's had enough of this and up she gets. I now get the chance to walk along side as the two lions go wandering through the bushes. Near a river they stop to drink and it's time to leave them behind and go find the 6 month old cubs. It's late afternoon and they are in a playful mood, biting and chasing each other. So cute. Good things come to an end and I'm later back at the hotel and packing my bag to begin the next part of the journey.

Lion Encounter, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Tour begins.....

It's day one of the second part of my Nomad tour. Because of the company's popularity and the fact that it's peak season, there are no Nomad trucks available so we are using an Africa Travel Co truck. It has a different configuration and there are pro's and cons. There are four from my last tour continuing with me including the Cyprus boys and a young Japanese couple. Plus people we haven't met yet. This group is predominantly swiss/dutch/german speaking and a different dynamic. This tour is combined accommodated and camping. I am not camping this time !!

After a no-hassle border crossing we leave Zimbabwe behind and enter Zambia. A quick stop in Livingstone for supplies and lunch and we are on the road to Pioneer Camp. There's heavy traffic in Lusaka so we get held up and arrive in the dark. It's too late to cook so Kelven, our guide, organises for the camp staff to supply our dinner.

We're up at 5am this morning to necessitate a long day of driving. It's one of those days when it's hard to keep the eyes open .....so I don't. zzzzzzzzzz

One of my favourite game parks is South Luangwa NP and this is where we are headed today. It's a very , long and bumpy road. Shocking in fact. We pass lots of villages and little children come running out with outstretched hands. A sign of hunger. We arrive at our camp on the banks of the Luangwa River. I'm in a chalet right above the river. There's hippoes and crocs and elephants. We're told not to go outdoors at night because the camp is open to all the wildlife and they frequently walk through at night. There's to be a visit to a local village and textile factory but as I've been there previously I opt to go on a game drive in the park. As soon as we are through the gates we sight animals. It's a great game drive. At one point we see 4 lions sleeping and the guide takes a long way round to get up close. It's dusk so time to get back to camp . The group are eager to know what I saw as we are all going out there tomorrow.

I am woken early by noisy hippoes that sound like they are right outside my door. They are sloshing around in the river and making lots of noise. In the distance I can hear the low grunting of a lion. It's an early start for the game drive and it isn't as busy as the night before but still see lots of animals.....including a leopard, impalas, zebras,waterbuck, ground hornbill,giraffes, elephants,puku, monkeys.............. A later night drive is just as productive.

South Luangwa NP

There's lions roaring in the night again. Awesome really. We are leaving South Luangwa and it's beautiful wildlife and heading on to Malawi.


We stop once again to change money into the currency of the next country....something we are getting used to now.




We have a stop at the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre while Kelven goes to get supplies. The animals here are orphaned, rescued, injured or brought in from zoos and rehabilitated. This centre is crucial to Malawi's wildlife conservation. It's an interesting guided walk around the premises.

We've got our first stop at a beach....Kande Beach. It's a lovely spot with white sand and gentle waves lapping the edge. There's Malawian ladies eager to provide laundry services. Bougainvillea vines adorn the main building.There's time to go for a wander before dinner. One thing that is expected is the locals who walk also on the beach and try to sell their time or products. There is a point at the lower end of the beach that has an invisible line....they are not supposed to cross it...but some do. They call out but are very friendly. My room is right on the beach and the door opens out onto the sand. The sound of the waves reminds me of home. 
 In the distance there appears what looks like smoke. It's actually a natural phenomenon ...an entomological wonder of the world. Billions of flies that feed off the bottom of the lake rise into the sky controlled by circadian rhythms....their internal clocks. They are not only eaten by fish and birds but also by the local people. They are crushed and made into cakes and dried in the sun.Rich in protein and calcium they are an important staple for these people.

Billions of flies

We hit the bar after dinner and it's relatively quiet so I go to bed. I'm woken at some ungodly hour of the night by the drunken Cyprus boys who inform me that I missed the dancing on the bar. Really ?....Go away !!!

Kande Beach, Malawi

 

It's gorgeous walking early on the beach next morning. The Cyprus boys , of course, are asleep ! There are fishermen in their boats and a couple of young guys washing in the water.The beach boys see me and approach. "Good morning boys". The group heads off for a village visit after breakfast and I stay back as have already done that too. I take the opportunity to go to a small house just through the main gate. A young girl and her sister and brother spend the next 3 hours tying coloured beads to the ends of my braids. Each one is tied on with small pieces of cotton. They tell me that royalty in Malawi has beads in their hair. Nice !  I am sitting just outside the door on a low box and it does get rather uncomfortable after some time. The family is inside and they peer out the corner of the window from behind the curtain. The parents, however, are not living here. I'm told they have gone to South Africa to earn money to send home. They haven't been here for over a year. The older girls and grandmother are minding the younger children. That's the way it is. I double the money pre organised to pay for this beading....the family needs it.
This evening the group is invited into the village for dinner. It's a short, dusty walk. We are met and greeted by one of the men .Mats are laid on the ground so we sit. There is no electricity here so we use our headlights. We begin with sweet potato soup followed by beef, beans,rice,cassava and wild spinach. After dinner we listen to the local youngsters singing then we are invited to sing and dance. There's a bright moon in the sky that lights our way back to camp after an enjoyable evening of hospitality.

 

 

 The next two days are long driving days with a night at Chitimba Beach.

Lilac Breasted Roller

 

We are now in Tanzania and another game park....Mkumi NP. There isn't much to see on this drive unfortunately but zebras are predominant. The beautiful lilac breasted roller bird is seen too. We leave the next morning beginning with a slow drive along the international highway. We are still within the boundaries of Mkumi NP so we see giraffes,zebras and a large herd of buffalo on the side of the road. This day is taking us to the city of Dar Es Salaam and the farewell of 10 of our group. Including my friends the Cyprus boys. It's emotional. We see them safely on their way, get some Tanzanian currency then make our way through the crazy traffic to Kipepeo Beach and a nice, cold cider.

We're off next morning to the ferry terminal with a small bag packed for the island of Zanzibar. We have a new member in our group...she's from Canada and lovely.It takes two hours on the ferry and luckily the sea is smooth. Once back on shore in Stone Town, a van transfers us to Africa House for lunch. It's Ramadan and most of the eateries are closed during daylight hours. Africa House is owned by non-muslims so remains open for service. We sit on an open terrace looking out over the Indian Ocean. Bliss !
We 're at Nungwi Beach now , white sand and blue water.Very touristy which, although I am one, it's not my preference. Get me back to the animals and wide ,open spaces.  I'm off to the maasai market for a browse. There's lots of calling out " Rasta " as I walk by. All in good fun though. I see some ladies sitting under a palm tree so go and sit with them and have a henna tatoo on my arm ( as ya do ). The sun is setting so it's time for sundowners on the beach with friends before heading off for dinner.
Today is a free day. Some of the group head off for a day fishing and snorkelling. I'm going back to the maasai market to do some more bargaining. Then it's a relaxing day lying in the sun next to the water. There's always someone who wants to make money however, and if you make eye contact ...that's it. Conclusion....I'm now lying on a mat enjoying a massage. And I haven't even moved. There's lots of restaurants along this stretch of beach so I go with a friend to check out a good option for the group. Dinner at Paradise followed by cocktails on the beach.

Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar

 

 

We leave Nungwi Beach and head back to Stone Town. Some of the group go for a Spice Tour but I want to head back and seek out a market that I missed last time I was here. As on the beach, I am approached by a gentleman eager to assist me with my holiday plans. I tell him about the market I'm looking for and a couple of things I want to buy while in Stone Town. He is very friendly ( of course ) and leads the way through the narrow alleyways typical of this old town. It's impossible to walk in a straight line as there are people everywhere. They are looking at me as if they've never seen a tourist before. Must be these braids. The little shops on both sides are jam packed with all manner of things from clothes to shoes to jewellery. " Come, Madam, look in my shop " they call. We're on a mission to find what I'm looking for so my guide is focused on finding them and doesn't stop anywhere else. We have been walking some time , going left and right, and he brings me to a more open area. It smells bad !  I mean it smells BAD !!  It's the food market and they are selling fish and meat. It's hideously hot and humid and nothing is refridgerated. I have to watch where I walk as there's blood on the ground. There's many stalls with fruit and vegetables. As already mentioned, it's Ramadan so the markets are buzzing with women buying food for the evening meals. My arms and shoulders are covered out of respect but, just quietly with this heat, I can feel the sweat dripping down my back.

The food markets in Stone Town, Zanzibar

 

 

Trying to cross the road is taking your life in your hands. My guide puts his hand in the air to stop cars moments before I get hit. God help me !! Crazy place. I eventually find the things I'm looking for, get back to point A and bid farewell and many thanks to my friendly guide. Without his local knowledge and help I would never have found the market and been hopelessly lost in this maze of alleys. It's back to Africa House for much needed sustainance.

 

Africa House terrace overlooking the Indian Ocean

 

 

 

We're back on the ferry this morning and leaving the lovely island of Zanzibar behind. The sea is a bit rough and the ride takes 2 and a quarter hours. A quick run to the ATM in Dar Es Salaam . Driving out of the city is bedlam in the traffic. But, creeping along the road gives time to peruse the shops on the side. There's a coffin shop of all things.....made to order with pretty flowers adorned on top !!

 

 

The outskirts of Dar Es Salaam city

Then a long drive to our next stop at Lesosho. To get to the hotel we have to traverse a very narrow and windy mountain road. It's last light of day and we go higher and higher. I'm sitting in a window seat and looking out is also looking DOWN....and it's a LONG way down !!! It seems like we are on the edge of the road and if the wheels go over the edge....we're history. I don't like this and can't wait to get to the hotel. We get lost in the dark and our driver has to ask directions. Thankfully, coming down again the next morning doesn't seem to take as long.

We're in Arusha now and maddening traffic again. We stop to refresh our supplies and lunch at a very nice cafe. A new member joins us here for the last part of the tour. She's Australian and has just climbed Mt Kilimanjaro.Welcome.

Street markets in Arusha

En route to our next accommodation, Kudu Lodge, we make a brief stop at a look out over Lake Manyara in the distance. Our lodge is beautiful and sundowners are taken around the pool. We need to pack a small bag again as we are heading into the Serengeti and camping. Our drivers arrive the next morning to collect us. Our own truck will stay behind until we return. We are in 4x4's...two for us and one for our camping equipment and supplies. There is time for a picturesque photo stop high above the Ngorongoro Reserve.

Ngorongoro Crater

 

 

We register to enter the Serengeti NP and back on long, dusty, bumpy roads. We stop to visit a traditional Maasai village. We are met by one of the tribe and introduced. It's blowing like crazy and the dust is getting into the camera and everything else. We are welcomed by a small group of maasai and they dance for us. Then we are escorted into the village and shown around . We go inside their huts and hear how they are made and how they live. The huts are made only by the women and are made of sticks and mud covered with cow dung.  The work is done mostly by the women while the men tend to the cattle and protecting them from lions. They make their own jewellery which they display for sale. We are taken to a small hut to the side which is full of little children.....kindergarten I'm told. This is an interesting culture and they still live their nomadic lives.

 

inside a maasai manyara

 

 

 

 

maasai warriers

 

 

We do a game drive through the Serengeti to get to our camp site. We see lions and a leopard in a tree with a kill. We are off to a good start. Arriving at camp in the dark, we are shown where our tents have been pitched. We don't do this ourselves this time as our guides have this responsibilty. It's a cold shower tonight which is not pleasant. There are only two showers for all these people....unisex. There's one toilet for all the women ( toilet = hole in ground with porcelain edge which necessitates squatting .........ABSOLUTELY DISGUSTING . The men have two urinals and two normal toilets ! Go figure !!!! There's so many people here and lots of noise. The cooking staff in the kitchen make so much noise that it's very difficult to get to sleep.

campsite in the Serengeti

I'm awake at 4.30am by the noise from the kitchen again. They're up preparing breakfast....bless them....but can they not be quiet ? Our morning game drive finds us lots of lions and two leopard sightings. Interspersed with waterbuck, gazelles, monkeys and baboons. It's very hot as we do our afternoon game drive. We see another leopard in a tree, a hyena chasing a jackal , zebras and a pair of bat-eared foxes before we are back at camp on dark. AAgghhh...lots of noise from the kitchen again.

After only two hours sleep and up at 5.15am, it's a quick cuppa before packing bag and off on another game drive en route to our next campsite. The tummy is rumbling today...quite queasy. Most likely a combination of the not-so-clean ablutions and the heat. Lucky I have remedies onboard to assist.  It's early and as we round a bend, 19 lions stroll across in front of us. I have never seen such a large pride as this one. They make their way down to the river to drink as we watch them in awe.

 

 

We make our way over to the Serenera area and find lots of zebras and giraffes grazing on the plains. There's wide, open spaces here and it's beautiful. We visit a noisy and smelly hippo pool which has all sizes and shapes. There's more lions and giraffes and baboons and..........................

 

 

 

 On our way to the Main gate , we stop off at a visitor centre. This place looks familiar but it doesn't come to me immediately so I wander around reading and looking at the information. There's that smell of dassie again and the telltale excrement . It's an interesting place with animal footprints imprinted into the concrete pathways. Then it comes to me.....this is where I came after my hot air balloon incident in 2009. I get a very heavy ,sinking feeling as memories come back to me.

 

We get to our next campsite, Simba, late afternoon. It's high up on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. It has a fantastic view but, being at high altitude, it's very cold and out come the woolies. Yay.....hot showers here .

 

campsite on crater rim

 

sunrise over the crater

Next morning we pack everything in the vehicles again and descend into the crater for a day of game driving. Although most of the animals are on their migration north, there are still lots of animals left here. No giraffes though as physically they cannot walk down into the crater. We see several lion prides...some with a kill and others just sleeping on the road or in the grass. Lots of zebras, buffalo, hyenas, numerous species of birds- including flamingoes- elephants......................

Wildebeest herd in Ngorongoro Crater

 

 

 

 



 



Our lunch break is next to a hippo pool and we are permitted to get out of the vehicle. Our other vehicle has broken down so our driver leaves us and goes to tow it back. He doesn't leave us our lunch so we are ravenous by the time he gets back. In the meantime we sit under a tree and watch the hippoes blowing bubbles and grunting at us in their territory. Some of them get a bit close so I keep a watchful eye. The broken vehicle is going nowhere so everyone has to pile in the one. It's cramped and hot but we have no option. We've just heard of a rhino sighting so we're off to find it. Those in the group who have still not seen all of the Big 5 in Africa, now get their wish. It's off in the distance but , at least, we can say we saw it. It's time to ascend the crater and head back to Arusha. At the gates we learn another vehicle has come to assist with transport so we are relieved of our cramped spaces. In Arusha we visit a snake park and maasai museum. I don't go near the snakes ..aagggghhhh...so browse a little shop nearby.

 

This is our last day in Tanzania and we leave at a busy time of the morning. Our driver takes a bumpy back road to avoid traffic which speeds things up. After another border crossing and another stamp in the passport, we are now in Kenya and making our way to Nairobi. Getting into Nairobi at lunchtime , we learn there has been a fatal accident and the traffic has slowed us to a crawl. We pass the site as the smashed up van is being loaded onto a truck and taken away. It's clear to see that it would be almost impossible to survive.

 

We've reached the drop-off hotel and the tour ends here. It's time to get our bags and make our own arrangements. It's a late lunch first though at a very nice cafe just a few metres away. Those of us left, sit and chat about where we go from here and staying in touch. I need a sim card and ask the guard at the door where is the best place to go. He is so willing to help that he takes my money and disappears down the street. A short time later he returns with the card and change ( which I give him ) and even puts the card in my phone for me. Good to go !  Such friendly and helpful people.

 

 I'm the only one not leaving Africa at this point and I am waiting to be picked up and taken to another hotel to begin the next stage of my journey.

 

It's thanks again to Nomad Adventure Tours for giving me another taste of Africa....it's friendly people, it's wildlife, it's culture and it's hospitality. Africa revisited !

 

 

To be continued..............................