It's ok children..... your mother did not disgrace herself on her night out. Loes and I went to The Boma...a very african restaurant. On entry we were given a colourful wrap to wear and escorted to our table and complimentary zulu beer. Our dinner consisted of african fare...warthog, ostrich, kudu, and accompanying salads etc. There was entertainment in the way of drummers...fantastic !. Then the audience was given a drum each and "taught " how to play. We made a mighty sound with approx 200 people playing drums at once. It was a great night out. Our last in Zimbabwe.
We met our next group and crew....11 ( predominantly german again ) and proceeded on a VERY LONG trip from Vic Falls to Lusaka in Zambia. The roads are very long, bumpy and dusty !!!!!. Its really looking like a third world country at this point. The following day is also long on our way to Chipata.
We are on our way to South Luangwa NP. On the way we have an electrical malfunction in the truck. Sparks and flames are shooting out of an appliance. We make a stop on the side of a road in the middle of nowhere. Within minutes there are 3 children coming out of the bushes...then 2 adults and 2 more youngters. One of our group, who has medical experience, notices that one of them ( a teenage girl we later come to know as Ruthie ) has a badly infected foot which she says ( in her limited english ) that she got as a result of a snakebite. We try to pool our medical supplies to help clean her foot but it is quickly apparent that she needs hospital care or she will lose her foot, if not her life !. Her older sister says they have no money and the doctor is too far away ....a typical story here in Africa. So we arrange to pick her up on our return 2 days later and take her to the nearest hospital.......the day arrives and I really would be surprised to see her waiting. The group has made a commitment to pay her costs and see that she is treated. We are nearing the place we first met on the side of the road and.....THERE SHE IS ! And the whole family. Ruthie and her sister, Sara and her baby are dressed in their best clothes. They are all smiling. They climb on the truck. Sara asks me to open the window....I thought because she wanted fresh air. But , no, it was to wave to people she had obviously told about what was to happen. On the side of the road also was an old man whom she told me was her grandfather. This experience for them would be one of a kind, thats for sure. It took one hour in the truck to drive to Chipata Hospital. It was a sunday so the doctor was not there. We paid the money directly to the hospital for her treatment and made arrangements for her to be seen the next day. They had family to stay with for the night so we also gave them money for food and transport back home.
We will never know what happened to Ruthie but we made a commitment to help her. There are many people here in her position and if it had not been for the electrical malfunction that day, we would never had met her. Just hope we helped save one life along the way.
South Luangwa NP is AMAZING. The wild life is abundant there. And not from a distant. We had lions walking along side the jeep one night...totally uncaring of our presence. The following night there were 7 lions sleeping on the side of the road. I took the opportunity for some great photos of course. We were instructed not to walk anywhere at night in the camp as it is within the park. Wild animals simply wander through the camp at night. This is truelly the african experience when it comes to wildlife. With one exception.....frogs and ghekkos in the bathroom !!! I dont like the feeling of creepie crawlies around when Im sleeping but I have to get used to it.
Now at Luwawa Forest. While socialising at night we strike up a conversation with an english girl here doing her PhD. She is also volunteering to help at a local school and asks if we would like to visit. After making arrangements with the one and only teacher ( for 83 pupils ) a few of us do the visit. It is totally impromptu and not an arranged tourist thing. What a total eye opener. The classrooms have dirt floors and the kids sit on the ground. A small blackboard leans against the wall and the sun comes through holes in the roof. Heartbreaking.....but...they are so happy ! This is their world and they know no different. Off to the side there is a small group of men building 2 new classrooms. This time in brick which they make one by one by hand. Two women collect water in containers which they carry on their heads. This is to mix cement. All the work is done by hand....there is no fancy machinery here and no running water. No other teachers will come here because of the conditions. And who could blame them. We take details for postage and say we will swend little things to help them. I have some bubbles again and the kids squeal with delight when they fly into the air. Such simple pleasures but they get so much delight. This is part of the cultural experience that Africa is.
Along the road is a village and I ask to stop and visit there too. There is an old man and he is delighted for us to see around his home. He speaks no english and has barely any teeth left but smiles profusely. He shows me his new house that is being built. It is of bricks but cant be finished because he cant afford it. The chickens run everywhere and without thinking, he puts his hand into a nest and produces 2 eggs which he has great pleasure in giving to me. I feel a little guilty accepting them as he needs the food but it would be offensive to refuse. And he holds my hand in both of his and insists I take them so I thank him. Such beautiful people here.
We have a few days of relaxation at the moment. Kande Beach in Malawi is devine and so peaceful. There is a local village just outside the compound and we are invited to do a visit and partake in a local dinner . The walk to the village takes half an hour and its sooooo hot and dusty. I dont think I will ever get my feet clean again !! We have kids hanging off our arms and chattering away. We visit another school but it is in stark contrast to the previous one and we quickly decide which one we prefer to assist !! Then off to a hospital room where pregnant ladies have their babies. The biggest problem here is malaria and mossie nets are needed. But when we leave and notice the medical assistant is able to afford to smoke...again we see clear.
The dinner is in the dark seated on a mat . Parrifin lamps stink the air. There is no power here. We have sweet potato soup, goat, fish, wild spinach, rice and casava. All this is cooked by the grandmother of our guide. Its quite nice but Im really cautious. A small group give us some singing and dancing entertainment. Because they know I am kiwi, 3 youngsters do the haka for me !!!! Imagine that....and they knew EXACTLY how to do it. How gorgeous is that !!! Apparently some other kiwiws taught them how to do it. We are invited to get up and dance with the children as our teachers. Great times.
I am at Chitimba Beach in Malawi at the moment. Its another beautiful spot. Tomorrow we make our way into Tanzania en route to Zanzibar....cant wait.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Zimbabwe
The mighty Victoria Falls is our first point of call when we arrive in Zimbabwe. Its the dry season but the water pouring over the falls is magnificant. Theres wild animals walking around but we're getting used to that now anyway. The temperatures are still very hot and drinking water is a must. Weve been placed in a 5 star resort of all places and its got magnificant views over into Zambia.
The first morning 3 of us have decided to go elephant riding. We are picked up at 6.30am and taken to these gentle but mighty beasts for a ride through the bushes. A guide with a gun is in front because , again, there are wild animals lurking. Indeed, we stumble on a herd of buffalo but to them, all they see is elephants and not us on their backs so they stay quiet. An hour later we disembark and are treated to breakfast under the trees by the river. Its serene in the early morning and theres only 5 of us there.
Next we are taken to walk with 2 lion cubs. I say cubs because they are only 18 months old but , trust me, one swipe or put a foot wrong and you're dead. They behave themselves fortunately and are just adorable. Kodak moments aplenty. Its getting hot and they are getting lazy so , my friend, Loes, and I have an appoitment for some pampering.
We are dropped off at a lodge and taken down to the back garden where we are treated to 2 hours of facial, massage, manicure and pedicure. Theres no soft , cushy beds with fluffy blankets and soft music. Its a hard board ( which becomes harder as time progresses....but who cares !! ) and only a sheet to cover. The sunlight filters through the trees above and theres a warm breeze. Strangers are wandering about but we pay them no mind ...theres more important things at hand afterall. trying to stay awake is a real mission and its over far too quick.
A quick bite back at the resort then off to shower and dress for the sunlight cruise on the Zambezi River. Again theres hippos and elephants....ho hum....
The decision to go to the markets the next day is a fiasco. Pressure..pressure...pressure...they are all out to get a dollar. Ive taken some socks and t shirts to trade and I have luck but ...what a performance in the afternoon heat. I got what I wanted but was it worth the hassle ???
I must saqy the people here in Zimbabwe are very friendly. They are some of the most accommodating people I have come across since being in Africa. And at no time have I felt unsafe. The bad part, apparently, is 100 km from here.
Tour #2 has finished and our group has gone their separate ways. We had a very friendly bunch this time and all got on well together with lots of laughs. Even the crew said we were the best ( but they would ). One remains with me and thats my new friend, Loes, from Holland. Shes carrying on with me and the new crew and travellers ( who we are yet to meet as I write this ) until we get to Nairobi in 3 weeks time.
Tonight her and I are going to a very African restaurant where, we are told , they will have live African music , drums and dancing. Participation is encouraged !! Uhh...oohh..
Watch this space :-)
The first morning 3 of us have decided to go elephant riding. We are picked up at 6.30am and taken to these gentle but mighty beasts for a ride through the bushes. A guide with a gun is in front because , again, there are wild animals lurking. Indeed, we stumble on a herd of buffalo but to them, all they see is elephants and not us on their backs so they stay quiet. An hour later we disembark and are treated to breakfast under the trees by the river. Its serene in the early morning and theres only 5 of us there.
Next we are taken to walk with 2 lion cubs. I say cubs because they are only 18 months old but , trust me, one swipe or put a foot wrong and you're dead. They behave themselves fortunately and are just adorable. Kodak moments aplenty. Its getting hot and they are getting lazy so , my friend, Loes, and I have an appoitment for some pampering.
We are dropped off at a lodge and taken down to the back garden where we are treated to 2 hours of facial, massage, manicure and pedicure. Theres no soft , cushy beds with fluffy blankets and soft music. Its a hard board ( which becomes harder as time progresses....but who cares !! ) and only a sheet to cover. The sunlight filters through the trees above and theres a warm breeze. Strangers are wandering about but we pay them no mind ...theres more important things at hand afterall. trying to stay awake is a real mission and its over far too quick.
A quick bite back at the resort then off to shower and dress for the sunlight cruise on the Zambezi River. Again theres hippos and elephants....ho hum....
The decision to go to the markets the next day is a fiasco. Pressure..pressure...pressure...they are all out to get a dollar. Ive taken some socks and t shirts to trade and I have luck but ...what a performance in the afternoon heat. I got what I wanted but was it worth the hassle ???
I must saqy the people here in Zimbabwe are very friendly. They are some of the most accommodating people I have come across since being in Africa. And at no time have I felt unsafe. The bad part, apparently, is 100 km from here.
Tour #2 has finished and our group has gone their separate ways. We had a very friendly bunch this time and all got on well together with lots of laughs. Even the crew said we were the best ( but they would ). One remains with me and thats my new friend, Loes, from Holland. Shes carrying on with me and the new crew and travellers ( who we are yet to meet as I write this ) until we get to Nairobi in 3 weeks time.
Tonight her and I are going to a very African restaurant where, we are told , they will have live African music , drums and dancing. Participation is encouraged !! Uhh...oohh..
Watch this space :-)
On to Namibia
We leave the greeness of Capetown behind and head NW towards the Namibian border. Theres a new crew , a new truck and new fellow travellers. The landscape quickly changes and becomes dry and arid. After a stop at a local winery we eventually arrive at the border.
Our first night is on the banks of the Orange River. Its a gorgeous spot. An early morning canoe up the river the next morning is an option so off I go. Never done it before so I'll give it a go. Only went into the reeds once so thats not too bad is it ?? The water is calm and theres lots of bird life...very serene.
The next day is a walk on the rim of the mighty Fish River Canyon...the 2nd biggest in the world. Its hot and dusty but an awesome sight. We arrived at our accommodation in the dark after driving over some of the most hideous roads imaginable. We are treated to what is known as a " Namibian Massage " !!! I feel like every bone in my body has gone out and come back in again 10 times over. One is not right in my neck and the manager of the establishment kindly puts it where it should be ( sorry Martin...had to be done ). Would you know it ???? theres 6 kiwis in the restaurant . This place is in the back of beyond and theres people from home !!
The dunes of Sossusvlei are totally amazing but to get there to see the full effect one needs to be there as the sun rises. Its worth it !! A photographers dream and ever changing with the light. I passed on climbing Dune 45 though and took photos instead.
After crossing the tropic of Capricorn , we arrive in Swokopmund. Its cold and damp after being in temperatures around 30 deg only a short time beforehand. Its the adventure capitol so options are awaiting. I choose to go quadbiking in the Namib Desert sand dunes. WOW....soooo much fun . I thought it wouold be a slow ride but NO...its hard out up and down the dunes. At half time we park the bikes and sandboard. I thought the dunes at Opononi were fast but nowhere near as fast or as big as these ones.
A real treat for me was visiting the Himba tribe and learning about their culture. We arrived at sunset which accentuated their skin colouring. I had taken some bubbles for the kids and was quickly inundated with them trying to get them out of my hands. I was surprised at how strong they were !. After a cultural lesson to learn their ways of being , I asked if I could have my face painted as they do and was allowed the priviledge of one of the ladies doing it for me. They use ochre and buttermilk. The guide took a photo to put in his book because he said he hadnt seen anyone do that before. It wasnt easy to get off but it was necessary as I didnt think the hotel owners would appreciate a red pillow the next morning.
Etosha National Park would have to be the most beautiful place so far in respect to viewing the wild animlas. They are prolific here and very easy to see. Zebras and elephants like you would not believe. How great it is to see them wandering free in their own environment and to be part of their space. Theres great expanses of openess and they coulodnt care less about us. Photo opportunities are endless here and its one place I would love to come back to .
The Okovango Delta in Botswana is another such place that needs to be experienced. While we were unlucky to not see hippos , we could certainly hear them. Right outside the door in the water grunting away. Twice during the day we were taken in mokoros ( dug out canoes ) to Chiefs Island and walked amongst the bushes looking for wild animals. There are lions here too and its more than a little unnerving wondering how our guide would ever save us if one appeared as he has no weapon. Thankfully we didnt have to find out. We did see animals but they kept their distance. One night a big bull elephant decided to swim across from the island and crash the palm trees only metres from my tent. Apparently he comes every 12 days looking for palm nuts. Theres no stopping the beast as we found out.
Botswanas NP is Chobe and here we are treated to great views of our much awaited hippos from the Chobe River cruise. Game is prolific here too especially elephants. Soooo much to see and do .
Soon we will be in Zimbabwe....
Our first night is on the banks of the Orange River. Its a gorgeous spot. An early morning canoe up the river the next morning is an option so off I go. Never done it before so I'll give it a go. Only went into the reeds once so thats not too bad is it ?? The water is calm and theres lots of bird life...very serene.
The next day is a walk on the rim of the mighty Fish River Canyon...the 2nd biggest in the world. Its hot and dusty but an awesome sight. We arrived at our accommodation in the dark after driving over some of the most hideous roads imaginable. We are treated to what is known as a " Namibian Massage " !!! I feel like every bone in my body has gone out and come back in again 10 times over. One is not right in my neck and the manager of the establishment kindly puts it where it should be ( sorry Martin...had to be done ). Would you know it ???? theres 6 kiwis in the restaurant . This place is in the back of beyond and theres people from home !!
The dunes of Sossusvlei are totally amazing but to get there to see the full effect one needs to be there as the sun rises. Its worth it !! A photographers dream and ever changing with the light. I passed on climbing Dune 45 though and took photos instead.
After crossing the tropic of Capricorn , we arrive in Swokopmund. Its cold and damp after being in temperatures around 30 deg only a short time beforehand. Its the adventure capitol so options are awaiting. I choose to go quadbiking in the Namib Desert sand dunes. WOW....soooo much fun . I thought it wouold be a slow ride but NO...its hard out up and down the dunes. At half time we park the bikes and sandboard. I thought the dunes at Opononi were fast but nowhere near as fast or as big as these ones.
A real treat for me was visiting the Himba tribe and learning about their culture. We arrived at sunset which accentuated their skin colouring. I had taken some bubbles for the kids and was quickly inundated with them trying to get them out of my hands. I was surprised at how strong they were !. After a cultural lesson to learn their ways of being , I asked if I could have my face painted as they do and was allowed the priviledge of one of the ladies doing it for me. They use ochre and buttermilk. The guide took a photo to put in his book because he said he hadnt seen anyone do that before. It wasnt easy to get off but it was necessary as I didnt think the hotel owners would appreciate a red pillow the next morning.
Etosha National Park would have to be the most beautiful place so far in respect to viewing the wild animlas. They are prolific here and very easy to see. Zebras and elephants like you would not believe. How great it is to see them wandering free in their own environment and to be part of their space. Theres great expanses of openess and they coulodnt care less about us. Photo opportunities are endless here and its one place I would love to come back to .
The Okovango Delta in Botswana is another such place that needs to be experienced. While we were unlucky to not see hippos , we could certainly hear them. Right outside the door in the water grunting away. Twice during the day we were taken in mokoros ( dug out canoes ) to Chiefs Island and walked amongst the bushes looking for wild animals. There are lions here too and its more than a little unnerving wondering how our guide would ever save us if one appeared as he has no weapon. Thankfully we didnt have to find out. We did see animals but they kept their distance. One night a big bull elephant decided to swim across from the island and crash the palm trees only metres from my tent. Apparently he comes every 12 days looking for palm nuts. Theres no stopping the beast as we found out.
Botswanas NP is Chobe and here we are treated to great views of our much awaited hippos from the Chobe River cruise. Game is prolific here too especially elephants. Soooo much to see and do .
Soon we will be in Zimbabwe....
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